Emergency
Suspect a Gas Leak? Do These 4 Things Immediately
If you smell rotten eggs near a gas appliance, the order you do things in matters. Here is exactly what to do, and what not to touch on your way out.
July 20, 2026 · 6 min read
Natural gas has no smell of its own. Utilities add mercaptan, the compound responsible for that rotten egg or sulfur odor, specifically so people notice a leak before it becomes dangerous. If you smell it, your nose is doing exactly what the additive was designed to make it do. Take it seriously the first time.
The order you do things in matters more than most homeowners realize. Here is the sequence we teach, and the reason behind each step.
1. Get everyone out — people and pets
Leave the building. Do not stop to gather things, do not open the garage with the opener, and do not go room to room hunting for the source. Take the kids and the dog and walk out the door you normally use.
If you can open a window or door on your way past without going out of your way, do it. But do not spend time ventilating the house. Air will follow you out the door you left open. Getting people clear is the only priority in the first sixty seconds.
2. Touch nothing that can make a spark
Natural gas needs an ignition source, and the ignition sources in a house are not the obvious ones. A light switch arcs internally when you flip it. So does a ceiling fan pull chain, a garage door opener, a thermostat calling for heat, and a refrigerator compressor kicking on. Any of those can be enough.
- Do not flip any light switch, on or off. Leave it however you found it.
- Do not use the garage door opener — go out a regular door.
- Do not plug in or unplug anything, including phone chargers.
- Do not start a car parked in an attached garage.
- Do not light a match, a lighter, or a candle for any reason.
- Do not use your phone until you are well away from the building.
That last one surprises people. A phone is very unlikely to ignite gas, but the guidance exists because it costs you nothing to walk thirty seconds down the driveway before dialing, and it removes the argument entirely.
3. Shut off the gas at the meter — if you can do it safely
Most homes here have the meter on an exterior wall, often on the side facing the street or in a side yard. On the pipe going into the meter there is a valve with a rectangular tab. When that tab runs parallel to the pipe, gas is on. Turn it a quarter turn so it sits crossways to the pipe and gas is off.
It takes a crescent wrench or a meter key. If you keep one thing in your utility drawer, make it an adjustable wrench sized for that valve, and go outside on a calm afternoon sometime and find your meter so you are not learning its location in the dark during an emergency.
Only do this if the meter is outdoors and you can reach it without walking back through the building. If the smell is strong outside near the meter, skip it and let the utility handle it. Nobody is grading you on this step.
4. Call from outside, in the right order
If the odor is strong, if you hear hissing, or if anyone feels dizzy, nauseated or headachy, call 911 first. Then call your gas utility, whose emergency number is printed on your bill. They will come shut the service off at the street at no charge, whatever the hour.
Then call us. The utility stops the flow at the meter, but they do not repair the piping inside your home or reconnect your appliances. That is where a licensed plumber comes in. We pressure-test the system, find the actual leak, repair it, and relight and verify everything that runs on gas before we leave.
What a gas leak actually smells and sounds like
The odor is the main signal, but not the only one. A leak can also announce itself as a faint hiss near a connection or an appliance shutoff. Outdoors, an underground line leak sometimes shows up as a patch of dead or brown grass in an otherwise green yard, or bubbling in standing water after a rain.
There is one more thing worth naming, because it is the dangerous cousin of a gas leak and people mix the two up. Carbon monoxide is a byproduct of gas that burns incompletely — a cracked heat exchanger, a blocked flue, an unvented appliance. It has no smell at all. If your household has headaches, nausea or drowsiness that get better when you leave the house and return when you come back, treat that as a CO problem and get out. A working CO alarm on every level is cheap insurance in any home with gas appliances.
Why leaks show up when they do in North Texas
Our soil is heavy clay. It swells when it is wet and shrinks hard when it is not, and a long hot summer in Rockwall County pulls a lot of moisture out of the ground. That movement puts real stress on buried gas piping and on the connections where a line enters a slab or a wall.
Freezes do their own damage. Appliances get pushed hard, connectors get bumped when people work around them, and older flexible connectors get brittle with age. We see a lot of leaks at the flex connector behind a range or a dryer, simply because those get moved during cleaning and remodels.
If your house is older and has never had a gas system inspection, it is a reasonable thing to ask for during a routine visit. A pressure test on the whole system takes a technician a short while and tells you definitively whether the piping is holding.
What we do when we get there
- Confirm the area is safe and verify the utility has shut off service if the leak is active.
- Test the full system under pressure rather than guessing at a single joint.
- Trace the leak with a combustible gas detector and soap solution at fittings.
- Repair or replace the failed section — connector, fitting, or run of pipe.
- Re-test under pressure to prove the repair holds before restoring gas.
- Relight and verify every gas appliance in the home, and check for proper venting.
Honest cost context, since it is the question everyone asks: a single bad flex connector behind an appliance is a modest repair. A leak in a line buried under a slab or in a wall is a different job, because access is most of the labor. What drives the number is where the leak is and how much has to be opened up to reach it. We tell you which one you are looking at before we start, not after.
One practice worth being wary of: any tech who wants to replace an entire gas system without pressure-testing it first is skipping the step that tells you what actually needs to be replaced. The test comes first, always.
We are family-owned, licensed for both gas piping and HVAC (TXM11693 and TACLB2360E), and a real person answers the phone at any hour. If you smell gas, get outside first. Then call (469) 338-5533 and we will take it from there.
Frequently asked
Should I open all the windows before I leave if I smell gas?
No. Open something only if it is directly on your way out. Walking around the house opening windows keeps you inside a building filling with gas and means touching more things that could spark. Get out first, call from outside, and let the utility and a licensed tech ventilate the space properly.
My gas smell is faint and only near the stove. Is that still an emergency?
Treat it as one. A faint odor at one appliance is often a loose or aging flex connector, which is a straightforward repair — but you cannot tell a small leak from the start of a large one by smell. Shut the appliance shutoff valve if it is accessible without hunting for it, get everyone out, and call us at (469) 338-5533.
The gas company came out and shut it off. Why do I still need a plumber?
The utility is responsible up to the meter. They will stop the flow and tag the system, but they do not repair the piping inside your home or relight your appliances. A licensed plumber pressure-tests the house side, makes the repair, proves it holds, and restores and verifies every gas appliance.
